At least that is what my mother would tell me. She would also tell me not to wear long skirts as they made me look short. What would she know?!
Proving her wrong I bring you my latest project a sage green blouse:
I love playing with different styles and silhouettes, and whilst I love a floral dress for summer, in winter the jeans and boots tend to come out of storage. Having no idea what I wore last winter I decided that I needed some more winter tops in my wardrobe.
The pattern is #122 from the 1/2008 issue of Burdastyle. I first came across this when visiting Marjorie who had made the blouse before (and incidentally has the best collection of Burda magazines ever!). I tried hers on and it fitted perfectly (with the exception of the sleeves being too long) and so borrowed her traced pattern. WIN! Or so I thought.
Enter the Sewaway in Melbourne where I took this pattern as one of my (many) intended projects. I had carefully cut it before I left and I was ready to go. I dutifully sewed it up and then tried it on. Aaargh – it was way too big at the neck/shoulders. But why??? I had tried it on and it was perfect.
Lightbulb moment – Marjorie’s was made with a cotton (maybe a voile?), my fabric is rayon. Damn you rayon and your wonderful drape!
I had to unpick the neckband and take 3″ (!!) out of the width. To solve this additional fabric issue, I added a centre box pleat.
There was supposed to be a functioning placket but the box pleat made this tricky so I decided to make it a fake placket, as luckily I had not cut the vent yet. The buttons are vintage from my US trip last year.
Then I guess it must have been getting late and I was getting tired. I realized I had got my sleeve bands and placket pieces mixed up and used a sleeve band for the placket. Gah! Of course the placket was too short to fit around my arm and I didn’t have any extra fabric as I had cut it out back in Brisbane and the scraps were long binned. Another hack job was on the cards. I used the two placket pieces to form the missing sleeve band. This just means one sleeve band has two joins instead of one. Pretty sure no one will notice and if they are looking that close I can just elbow them in the nose!!
The blouse has some really interesting details. The sleeves have two pieces, an upper and lower sleeve. The upper sleeves extend across the back and join in the middle to form a yoke, but at the front join the bodice to form a raglan. There are pleats on the back and front which are stitched down approximately 3″ to control the fullness (and hopefully assist in avoiding the pregnant look).
I have added 3″ to the pattern length, unusual for me since I am 5’2″, but the pattern is pretty short and I really wanted to avoid any potential tummy flashing!!
Time for a close up, plus bonus peek to the inside which is predominantly French-seamed.
All construction issues aside, I absolutely love this blouse and it is perfect for our mild Brisbane winters. I feel like I am totally channeling Nina Proudman in this.
Pattern – Burdastyle #122 from 01/2008 issue – not available online
Fabric – 1.5m of Rayon from East Coast Fabrics
Notions – vintage buttons and thread