When Tessuti launched their Jaywalk Fabric Challenge I had all sorts of brilliant ideas on playing with the stripes and doing different directions etc. I ordered 3m of the fabric and started planning. Then before I knew it, time got away on me and I didn’t get around to making anything in time to enter the challenge. My work is very deadline based so I guess outside of work I like to rebel and do my own thing!
Several weeks later I pulled the fabric out with the idea of making a striped dress with chevron stripes on a princess seamed bodice. In my head though I had envisaged the stripes being smaller, but in real life they are a 1″ stripe and I felt too big for the effect I was after so a new vision took over. Enter the hacked Skater Dress.
Those of you familiar with the Lady Skater dress will notice I have made a number of changes:
- shortened the bodice by 1.5″ as the fabric is quite stretchy and with the weight of the skirt this enabled it to finish at my waist
- straightened off the bottom of the bodice so I didn’t have a strange striping issue at the waist. I cut straight across following the bottom of a black stripe
- used a dirndl skirt instead of the half circle. I didn’t want the stripes angled and didn’t want a flared skirt. The skirt is a rectangle using the full width of the fabric so is 150cm x 55cm (before hems and seaming). I used elastic to gather the skirt evenly.
- omitted the neckbands
- the most obvious change is my addition of a kimono sleeve which I have included a diagram below
Essentially I extended the shoulder seam by 10cm, added a small curve from the underarm, to enable the turning under of the sleeve hems, and then drew a straight line to join these and form the sleeve. This line is parallel to the side seam (although I just eyeballed this). I then did the same to the back. Construction was then just a case of joining the shoulder seams, the side seams, the sleeve hems (I prefer these in hemmed in the round instead of hemmed first). The neck is just turned under once and hemmed with my coverstitch (have I told you how much love this machine?).
It certainly is more scooped without the neckband and a little cleavage revealing but might as well make the most of it huh??
I ensured the bottom of the bodice was the bottom of a black stripe and the top of the skirt the top of a black stripe so when I joined them together it was still the width of one stripe and looks continuous, I am really happy I took the time to do this. Wonky and uneven stripes bother me A LOT!
This fabric was lovely to work with and feels amazing to wear. It is a 92% viscose/8% elastane jersey and has fabulous drape with great stretch recovery. I still have about 2m left that I haven’t decided what to do with yet.
In homage to Lizzy and her post about accessorizing, here is how I wore this dress today. Normally I am a bit hopeless, I forget to add a necklace, scarf or whatever and almost always forget to wear makeup. It has never been a habit for me, but I am aware that I look more ‘put together’ and finished when I do. Something for me to work on 🙂
I was unsure how I would feel about wearing horizontal stripes, you know that old story of them being unflattering and making one look as big as a house, but I don’t think this dress has this effect at all. In fact is has fast become a wardrobe favourite.